Front turn signal stems

In order to get the bike registered I needed to get it inspected, and in order to get it inspected, I would need to fix that hanging turn signal you can barely see in the previous post's photo.  I really should have taken more photos of this process, but it really wasn't too dificult.  I purchased some replacement front turn signal stems from jcwhitney.

Tools needed:
-vise or hard surface and a c-clamp
-small crescent wrench and phillips screwdriver
-sharp blade
-handheld drill or a drillpress
-Letter "G" drill bit jobber length
-electrical tape

Step 1:  Unbolt the two bolts holding the headlight, and just let the headlight dangle.

Step 2:  Unscrew the speedo cable.

Step 3:  Disconnect the individual wires leading to the turn signals.

Step 4:  Remove the nut holding the turn signal/stem to the bike.

Step 5:  CAREFULLY split the tape or wire-wrap and remove it, so the individual wires are hanging out of the turn signal assembly.

Step 6:  Remove the phillips head screw holding the signal to the stem.

Step 7:  Pull the stem away from the signal, and pull the wires out, being careful with the bullet connectors at the ends of the wires.

Step 8:  Grab your new stems in a vise with the threaded side up.  The rubber is hollow, so it will crush a little bit, but don't tighten the vice until you collapse the rubber.  It is not round, so it wont spin in the vice.  (I highly suggest you refrain from trying to do the next step while holding the stem between your knees)

Step 9:  Drilling out the barrel is tricky.  If you think you can be careful, then chuck up the letter "G" drill bit and start drilling it out.  If you are too aggressive, the barrel will detatch from the rubber and spin, and you have ruined your new stem.  The trick is to just be really nice, and when you see the barrel twisting, be careful not to let it twist too far and break free of the rubber.  Don't ask how I learned this.  If you want to do it the smart way, I would start with a 1/4 inch drill(or letter "E", exactly the same drill bit), then step to an "F", then step to the "G".  Three drill bits will cost a couple bucks.  Another stem is 8 plus shipping.  Your call. 

Step 10:  Once you have opened up the ID of the barrel with the drill , you can start to reassemble.  But this is the trickiest part of the whole process.  Getting the three wires through the new stem.  I acheived this miraculous(not exagerating) feat by taping a short skinny piece of coat hanger to the longest wire.  Then taping the second longest wire and taping it to the longest wire, but below the coat hanger, and preferable inline with the coat hanger.  Then taping the third wire to the other two in such a way as to create the smallest diameter bundle as possible.  I wish you the best of luck, and oodles of patience while getting the wires through the stem.
Afterthought:  what could have been done to simplify step 10, would have been cutting off the bullet connectors, feeding the wires through, then crimping some new bullet connectors on the wires.  That would have been less stressful, but cost a few bucks more. 

Step 11:  Once the wires are through, reconnect the signal with the stem using the large phillips screw.  Once this has been reattached, you will need a roll of electrical tape, and a friend.

Step 12:  starting as close to the stem as possible, start wrapping all three wires into one bundle with the electrical tape.  Remember to leave yourself about 5 inches of unwrapped wire at the ends in order to reconnect everything.

Step 13:  Reverse steps one through four, and when you're done, adjust the headlight to the proper angle.